The human world comprises people of many ethnic groups and cultures with each ethnic group having certain general characteristics with respect to eye, hair and skin color.
For example, central and northern Europeans tend more towards fair skin, hair and eye color, while southern Europeans tend to have dark hair, brown eyes and darker, olive skin tones. People of African and Australian aboriginal decent have very dark or almost black skin, usually dark or black hair and brown eyes, whilst people of Asian decent have a yellowish skin tone and can have brown or blue eyes but have mostly dark or black hair. Those of American-Indian decent have more reddish tones to skin and hair with brown eyes. Why do people have different skin colors?
The reason people have different skin colors is because there are three main pigments that give human skin a wide variety of colors: melanin, carotene and hemoglobin. Melanin is mostly located in the epidermis of the skin, carotene is mostly in the dermis and hemoglobin is in red blood cells within the capillaries in the dermis.
Melanin, a naturally occurring sun-block that protects our skin cells from the harmful effects of ultra-violet radiation from the sun, is produced from the amino acid tyrosine by special cells called melanocytes. The production of melanin is controlled by an enzyme called tyrosinase and is stimulated by exposure to sunlight. People whose melanocytes do not produce very much tyrosinase will most likely have fair skin and will not tan easily. Some people inherit an inability to produce melanin because their melanocytes cannot make the enzyme tyrosinase and these people have a condition known as albinism.
How Do Skin Pigments Work?
Carotene, the same pigment that is found in egg yolks and yellow, orange and red vegetables and fruits, is a precursor of Vitamin A synthesis. People of Asian and American-Indian ancestry have more carotene in the stratum corneum and fatty areas of the dermis and subcutaneous tissue.
The epidermis of fair skinned people is translucent, thus the pinkish tones seen in Caucasians is due to the presence of the pigment haemoglobin, an iron-based oxygen-carrying molecule in red blood cells.
The relative proportions of these pigments give us the variations we see in skin colour: more melanin will give darker brown to black skin tones, more carotene is responsible for the yellow to reddish tones and the hemoglobin gives red to pinkish tones.
We know that genetics have a major influence on our skin colour, skin resilience and vulnerability to certain skin problems. In addition, people with a lot of body hair, often have a greater tendency to oily skin and blocked secretory glands resulting in pimples and other similar skin conditions. On the other hand, people with red hair and very fair skin, have less of a problem with oily skin, but tend to burn easily in the sun and thus stand a greater risk of developing skin cancer.
Below are some generalized characteristics of various skin types from different genetic backgrounds:
Skin Characteristics of people with Anglo-Saxon origins
Fair, dry thin-skinned
Scars heal well
Signs of aging appear earlier
Burn easily in the sun
Bruising more obvious
Greater chance of skin cancer
Skin Characteristics of people with Southern Mediterranean origins
Oily, olive dark complexion
Signs of aging appear later
Cartilage tends to droop
Darker, thicker scars more common
Wrinkles appear later and in more localized areas
Skin cancer rare
Skin Characteristics of people with Northern European origins / German and Scandinavian
Fair, blue-eyed, blonde
Thin skin
Scars heal well
Signs of aging appear early
Bruising more obvious
Greater chance of skin cancer
Skin Characteristics of people with Southern European origins
Dark, oily brunette complexion
Signs of aging appear later
Fine wrinkling less common
Bruising lasts longer
Scars may be thicker and darker
Skin cancers less common
Skin Characteristics of people with Northern European/Irish and northern England
Ruddy freckled complexion
Red hair
Scars usually thin
Signs of aging appear later
Bruises easily
Pigmentation problems
Skin cancers most common in this type
Skin Characteristics of people with African origins
Signs of aging appear very late
Very little fine wrinkling
Formation of keloids is possible
Pigmentation changes may occur
Thicker cartilage hard to change
Skin cancers very rare
Genetically, this skin type is less susceptible to damage from UV radiation, although the skin can still get burned.
Skin Characteristics of people with Asian origins
Signs of aging appear late
Fine wrinkling does not usually occur
Pigmentation changes may occur
Eyelid surgery more difficult
Skin cancers very rare
Do these ethnically different skin types require a different approach to skin care?
The answer is ‘to some extent, yes’ but on closer analysis we will see that there is very little difference between black, brown, yellow, red and white skin types!
Within each of these groups, there is a wide range in skin tones and overlap from group to group. For example, white skin may range from alabaster white to deep olive tones; black skin may range from light tan to almost ebony black; Asian skin from light yellow to deep tan; and in American-Indian and Inuit skin, various tones of reddish brown. These differences are caused by the concentration of melanin and proportional contribution of the other pigments in the skin.
People of different races have the same number of melanocytes but they are more active in dark-skinned people. Oil glands tend to be more numerous and large in black skin, and follicles tend to be larger, so black skin tends toward oiliness, although it is less acne-prone. The darker the skin the more protection melanin provides from ultra-violet rays of the sun and from premature aging and stays younger-looking longer.
It becomes obvious very quickly that we are all very different and have various advantages and disadvantages specific to our skin type, depending on our genetic predisposition. However, the overall structures and functions of skin are very similar irrespective of color and are therefore cared for in very similar ways. Knowing your skin’s particular strengths and weaknesses, you can tailor your skin care approach to your particular skin-characteristics.
Classic Skin Type Categories
For the purpose of better understanding the care your skin requires, a ‘Skin Type Classification System’ has been devised and developed over the years. The basic skin types are generally described as oily, dry, normal, sensitive, mature or a combination of these. A brief description of each of the skin types and what you need to be aware of in order to balance your skin is given below to provide you with approaches to natural skin care which help you make the correct choices for your particular skin.
Skin Types: Normal, Dry, Oily, Combination, Dull or Mature
Normal skin type
Normal skin is smooth, finely-textured, soft and supple. If you are lucky enough to possess this skin type, treasure it by using light cleansers and lotions and mild toners and fresheners.
Dry skin type
Dry skin is usually thin and delicate and often flaky and prone to fine lines. It sometimes feels tighter than it should. Extremely rich and greasy creams are not good for it because they block the pores, often enlarging them and so creating an extra problem. Use light oils and lotions when moisturising and choose herbal toners, which are mild and not too astringent. Try to restore the pH or acid-alkali balance with the application of such things as cucumber juice or diluted vinegar so that the sebaceous glands are encouraged to function.
Generally speaking, the emollient and hydrating herbs (chamomile, comfrey, cowslip, elderflower, fennel, marshmallow, orange blossom, rose, violet) are the best to use in lotions and toners for dry skin. But there is no hard and fast rule. Astringent herbs can be good for dry skins, for example, if blended with emollient herbs or oils and gels, and many herbs are suitable for all skin types. If the skin is sensitive as well as dry, see the section on sensitive skin below.
Oily skin type
Oily skin is shiny and coarser-textured, often with enlarged pores. It is prone to blackheads and spots. Don’t use alcohol to reduce the oiliness of the skin, as it will only worsen the problem. Many herbal toners are suitable for reducing oiliness and tightening the pores (see list of suitable herbs below). Egg-white makes a nice mild face-mask. Don’t over-dry the skin; moisturize with a light lotion. Aim to restore your skin’s acid-alkali balance so that the sebaceous glands cease to produce such large amounts of oil.
Astringent and cleansing herbs are generally the best to choose when treating an oily skin. These are: cinquefoil, clary sage, comfrey, cucumber, dandelion, horsetail, houseleek, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemongrass, lemon verbena, marigold, mint, parsley, sage, witch hazel and yarrow. But don’t forget that many herbs are suited to all skin types and that many of the strengthening and anti-inflammatory herbs (chamomile, cowslip, fennel, lettuce, elderflower, orange blossom, rose, violet) are suitable for oily skins.
Combination skin types
The person with this skin type will have to follow two skin-care routines, one for the dry areas, and another for the oily. I think the oily areas balance up more easily in this type of skin than when the whole face is oily, so don’t despair.
Sensitive skin type
This skin is usually fine-textured and often prone to reddish veins and patches. Keep to light oils and lotions for cleansing and moisturising, and mild herbal toners and compresses to soothe the skin and reduce redness and veins. It is usually wise for people with sensitive skins to stay away from the stimulating herbs (lavender, lime-flower, mint, nettle, sage, southernwood, summer savory, thyme).
Dull skin
Dull skin has lost the bloom of vitality and the soft glow of renewal, the acid balance has been lost and it looks matt and lifeless. This condition of the skin often occurs during or following severe illness. If it is oily or large-pored skin use diluted cider vinegar or lemon juice, or cucumber juice to balance it or if dry skin, use buttermilk or cucumber juice, together with a highly nutritious diet.
Mature skin type
It is possible to tone, soften and restore older skin to much of its former freshness. The skin has wonderful regeneration abilities, given the right support. Use a light hand with makeup if you must use it, as this tends to further dry and age mature skin. Of course, exercise, good nutrition, adequate rest/relaxation and a positive outlook on life all help the restoration process.
Other Factors that can influence you skin
The foundation of healthy, beautiful skin is diet. Are you getting sufficient polyunsaturated fats? These are essential to a healthy skin and do not cause facial oiliness. They are found in cereal grains, nuts and cold pressed nut and vegetable oils.
Plenty of vitamin C is fundamental to a beautiful skin, because this vitamin helps to build collagen and elastin, the bonding and structural substances which give tone and resilience. Eat bean sprouts, green and red peppers, black currants, oranges and lemons. Then there are guavas and rosehips, so your diet need not be restricted or dull. There is infinite variety to suit every palate.
Lack of vitamin A can cause dryness of the skin. Eat dandelion, parsley, watercress, carrots, pumpkins, celeriac.
If your skin is unbalanced, either flaky or too oily, or if your lips peel, then check your intake of vitamin B foods. Oats, years, bran, goat’s milk, whole rice, sunflower seeds, sprouted seeds and grains are some of the sources.
Caring For Your Skin on a Daily Basis
Looking after the body’s largest and arguably one of the body’s most complex organs needs to become one of your daily routines.
Firsly, you need to adopt a regular, structured skin care regime of exfoliating, cleansing, toning and moisturizing. There is no way around it.
Secondly, if you have combination skin, you may need to look at two different types of products to treat your different skin types. For example you may have both dry, sensitive skin and oily skin. That simply means you need to treat the sensitive skin with one set of products and the oily skin with a second set of products.
The next thing you need to consider is what you put into your body. Yes, here it comes – diet. Rather than promote any particular diet or tell you whether to eat high protein or low carb or what ever-diet, suffice it to say that if you keep your food as unprocessed as possible, as fresh as possible and as varied as possible – you will have a good diet and the foods you’re eating are helping you to correct the imbalance of your skin type.
The nutrients in your food will be reflected in your skin – eat processed, high fat foods and you guessed it – your skin will reflect ‘what you eat’. This also includes adequate hydration: water is the basic ingredient required for all the chemical reactions that occur in body cells and for effective removal of waste products.
Don’t forget about exercise: swimming, walking, using the stairs instead of the lift at the office and using your feet when using the car is not absolutely necessary. It’s not that hard, it just takes a bit of will power and knowing that increasing your blood circulation by doing those little things regularly will keep you healthier for longer. Even mild exercise, has a beneficial effect on not only blood circulation around the body but also on the lymphatic system. The lymphatic system assists the removal of waste products and excess fluids from the tissues and prevents the condition commonly known as cellulite or ‘orange-peel’ skin.
So there it is…no matter who you are, what skin color or skin type you possess…look after your skin using natural skin care products and it will look after you!
By: Dr Danny Siegenthaler
It would be nice if we could do away with the signs of aging and look at least ten years younger. Here are the secrets.
As you get up there in years, certain problems are going to appear and one of them is wrinkles. They can be most visible around your eyes, forehead, cheeks and neck. You can get downright discouraged and even depressed when you look into a mirror. Take heart, there are answers.
Maybe you cannot stop time from marching on, but you can diminish the signs of the aging process and look better than ever. Here is what happens and some suggestions to keep in mind.
Why Do You Develop Fine Lines?
As a person ages, the skin undergoes significant changes. The inner layer of the skin begins to thin and the cells begin to divide more slowly. Fat cells begin to lessen or die beneath the dermis.
The collection of collagen fibers and elastin which provide a sort of scaffolding for the surface layer begin to come apart. Skin then loses its flexibility. It tends to sag and forms furrows.
The oil secreting and sweat glands atrophy, and the skin cannot retain its moisture. Therefore, it becomes dry and scaly. Constant facial expressions form characteristic lines. Gravity aggravates the situation and contributes to the formation of drooping eyelids and jowls. Also, eyebrows tend to move up as someone ages perhaps because of forehead wrinkles and the skin has less of an ability to repair itself so wounds heal more slowly.
There are other factors that contribute to your skin wrinkling and wearing out. These include the following:
1. Sunlight destroys collagen fibers and causes an accumulation of abnormal elastin. Metalloproteinases, or enzymes, are produced that are able to repair most of the damage, however, it is this repetition of the rebuilding process that is done over and over again that causes skin problems.
2. The sun’s ultraviolet radiation promotes oxidation. This also leads to the development of skin abnormalities.
3. Cigarette smoking causes the thickening and fragmentation of elastin, reduces circulation and the amount of oxygen that is supplied to the skin, and leads to less Collagen formation and reduced water content in the skin. Last but not least, smoking compromises the ability of the skin to fend off free radicals causing cell damage.
4. Air pollution – Ozone may be a problem for the skin. It may cause depletion of Vitamin E in the skin which is a vital antioxidant.
5. Rapid weight loss – This can cause fine lines since it reduces the volume of fat cells which cushion the face. This will cause the skin to sag.
6. Heredity – You may have inherited some skin characteristics from your parents.
Wrinkles are the most visible signs of aging. As tissues sag, these lines form a type of canvas that is covered with cracks that have varying depths. As time marches on, they deepen and reach the dermis. As the dermis loses its elasticity, it becomes slack which leads to the formation of more pronounced wrinkles over 0.05 mm in depth.
Here is the normal progression of wrinkles characterized by age group:
20-25 – Vertical wrinkles on one’s forehead and even between the eyebrows may already be visible. Fine lines at the external edges of the eyes are not yet noticeable.
25-40 – Wrinkles start to become a reality. They are less than 0.0005 mm in depth. They are caused by the superficial drying out of one’s skin as well as the slowing down of cellular renewal.
40-50 – Slowly the skin will lose its cutaneous substance. Deeper wrinkles as well as laughter lines now reach the dermis where they are greater than 0.5 microns in depth. The skin loses it elasticity and the facial contours are not less well defined.
50 and over – Hormonal secretions end as menopause appears and this accelerates the aging process. The skin’s surface begins to modify and intermediary lines are replaced by ever deepening furrows.
The older you become, the more wrinkles you get. You can minimize this damage by taking good care of your skin.
Wrinkle Treatments: here are a few promising remedies for worn out skin. There are some new wrinkle creams and topical lotions, like Royal Gold or Revitol, that contain natural ingredients that may help lessen this problem. For example:
1. Argireline – this is a safer alternative to Botox. It is not derived from any poisonous substance, but from naturally occurring amino acids. This element relaxes facial tension because it is able to reduce the excessive release of neurotransmitters which are also known as catecholamines. These make your facial muscles become tense. If your muscles are not tense, they do not contribute to wrinkles. Also, it may slow down the degeneration of elastin and collagen which normally occurs with aging.
2. Dermox SRC – this is a specially tested serum that helps to control wrinkles, increases the synthesis of collagen, and repairs the skin’s surface.
3. Edelweiss Extract – this powerful antioxidant eliminates free radicals that are caused by exposure to UV sun rays over time, pollution, and the modern western diet which tends to be high in fats and sugars. It also prevents the increase of super oxides which are integral in promoting the aging of skin. It contains bioflavonoids which strengthen blood vessel walls. Look for this ingredient in wrinkle reduction creams and lotions.
How Can You Reduce Fine Lines and Wrinkles?
There are several things you can do to reduce the signs of aging that you already have and minimize future occurrences. These include:
•Stay out of the sun
•Do not smoke
•Use a brand name anti-aging cream
•Drink plenty of water
•Eat an abundance of vegetables and fruits
•Exercise
By doing these things, you will be taking important steps to help maintain a younger appearance while reducing the onset of aging skin.
By: Black